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The Wreck of the Princess Sophia

Princess Sophia underway

Winter & Pond photo, Alaska State Library, PCA 87-1698

The S.S. Princess Sophia underway in Southeast Alaska

CP Steamship poster

Poster advertising the 1918 summer voyages of the Princess Alice and the Princess Sophia.

 

The S.S. Princess Sophia, a steamer loaded with over 340 passengers and crew, left Skagway on the evening of October 23, 1918 for its last seasonal trip south to Vancouver. The vessel included a cross-section of Alaskan and Canadian residents with riverboat captains and crewmembers, former miners and laborers, and businesspeople among the many passengers on board. Many were headed south for the winter while others, discouraged by the worsening economy, had no intention of ever returning.

"While we have a published schedule, bear in mind that the Company do not wish any risk whatever run in order to maintain this schedule, take no chances in foggy or stormy weather."

-An early Canadian Pacific Railway order to officers

Princess Sophia model

This model of the Princess Sophia is approximately four feet long and is on loan to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia. Below is a view of the wheelhouse and the foredeck.

Wheelhouse of the Princess Sophia

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Despite strong winds, blinding snow and darkness, the Princess Sophia steamed down Lynn Canal at high speed and eventually hit Vanderbilt Reef about 30 miles north of Juneau. Initially, the vessel rested firmly on the reef and none of the passengers were believed to be in any immediate danger

 

Princess Sophia on Vanderbilt Reef

Winter & Pond photo, Alaska State Library, PCA 87-1701

This photo was taken as other vessels circled the grounded Princess Sophia and waited for the opportunity to rescue the passengers.

 
Rescue boats were dispatched as soon as reports of the grounding reached Juneau. Those arriving to help included a mail and freight boat, a fishing vessel, and a lighthouse tender. But Captain Leonard Locke of the Princess Sophia decided that it would better to wait for the weather to ease before attempting an evacuation. Locke may have feared risking the lives of the passengers by making them evacuate the vessel and get into lifeboats while still above the dangerous reef.
 

Princess Sophia on Vanderbilt Reef

Winter & Pond photo, Alaska State Library, PCA 87-1702

This is one of the most famous pictures of the Princess Sophia taken shortly after it ran aground on Vanderbilt Reef. Professional photographer E.P. Pond managed to catch a ride aboard the fishing vessel 'King & Winge' as it left Juneau for the reef. The only navigational aid marking the reef is in the foreground. The bouy has since been replaced by a more prominent lighted marker that was constructed on the reef itself.

 

 

After the Princess Sophia sat on the reef for most of the next day, it became apparent that the weather and the seas were getting worse. It's believed that high winds and a high tide combined to lift the stern of the vessel off the reef and tear away part of the hull during the late afternoon of October 25, 1918. The damaged steamer then pivoted so that the bow headed north as water flooded inside. The vessel then slipped backwards beneath the water. Everyone aboard was killed within minutes with many dying by suffocation after being covered by oil. Bodies were found on the beaches as far south as Douglas Island for weeks after the disaster. Despite the threat of the spread of Spanish Influenza, many Juneau residents volunteered to help clean and prepare the bodies for their voyage south.
   

Mast of Princess Sophia and Vanderbilt Reef

Winter & Pond photo, Alaska State Library, PCA 87-1721

This photo shows what potential rescuers saw on the morning of October 26, 1918. The Princess Sophia has disappeared from her resting place on the reef. The only indication as to what may have happened is visible on the far left with the top of the foremast seen sticking out of the water. The only bouy that marked the reef is visible on the far right.

"For God's sake, hurry. The water is coming into my room."

One of the last messages of David Robinson, the telegraph operator aboard the Princess Sophia

 

 
Despite the enormous loss of life, the Princess Sophia tragedy was overshadowed by other events. The Spanish Influenza was already claiming tens of thousands of lives across North America and it was even beginning to infect people in faraway places like Juneau. World War One was also, finally, coming to a close. Another steamer, the Princess Alice, was initially dispatched to Juneau to assist in rescue efforts when the news of the grounding finally reached Vancouver. Later called "The Ship of Sorrow," the Princess Alice quietly returned to Vancouver with dozens of bodies from the Princess Sophia just as jubilant residents celebrated Armistice Day.
 

Last trace of Princess Sophia

Winter & Pond photo, Alaska State Library, PCA 117-89

A model at the Maritime Museum of British Columbia of the Princess Alice that also traveled the same Vancouver-to-Skagway route as the Princess Sophia. Later called "The Ship of Sorrow," the vessel later returned to Vancouver with many of the bodies from the Princess Sophia. Visible in the background is a display featuring the wrecks of the Princess Sophia and Princess May, another notable Juneau shipwreck.

   

A Canadian inquiry later focused on Captain Locke's decision to wait for better weather to have his passengers rescued, but judges did not find him or the company at fault for what turned out to be the worst maritime disaster on the Pacific Coast. Canadian Pacific Railway Company was paid on their insurance claim for the vessel and relatives of the crew received a minimal pension. But, after over a decade of legal wrangling, relatives of the passengers were unable to collect any substantial damages for their loss.

Provincial Courthouse

Provincial Courthouse in Victoria, B.C. (above) that served as one of the sites for the Princess Sophia inquiry. It is now the home of the Maritime Museum of British Columbia and includes an extensive collection of ship models. The restored courtroom on the third floor (below) now serves as a theater. The jury box, located against the right wall, is actually duplicated on the left so that a grand jury of 24 members could be seated for special inquiries such as the Princess Sophia.

Courtroom

 

 

"Wreck of Princess Sophia has cast great shadow over all of Northland. Alaska grieves with the Yukon."

-Message sent by Alaska Territorial Governor Thomas Riggs

Harper grave

 

The burial site in Juneau's Evergreen Cemetary (above) for Walter and Frances Harper who were married shortly before they boarded the Princess Sophia. They are among the several victims of the disaster who were laid to rest in Juneau. The inscription on the gravestone partially reads "Walter Harper and Frances Wells, his wife, crowned on the Princess Sophia, 25th Oct. 1918, May light perpetual shine upon them." Walter Harper planned to became a medical missionary and return to Alaska or become a military doctor. Walter was also the son of Arthur Harper who helped lay out the streets of Dawson City and pioneered prospecting in the Klondike with Jack McQuesten and Alfred Mayo.

 

Audio:

The Wreck of the Princess Sophia, part one

The Wreck of the Princess Sophia, part two

Juneau diver John Lachelt describes what the wreck of the Princess Sophia looks like today

James Delgado, executive director of the Vancouver Maritime Museum, discusses how the Princess Sophia was twisted off of the reef and sank

Vancouver authors Ian MacDonald and Betty O'Keefe talk about how the rescue boats and community of Juneau responded to the Princess Sophia tragedy

Vancouver authors Betty O'Keefe and Ian MacDonald explain more about a Robert Service poem that was inspired by Lulu Mae Eads, a passenger who later boarded the Princess Sophia

Vancouver author Ian MacDonald tells the story of Iditarod miner Al Winchell who kept his promise to find his bride Ilene and bury her in California if anything happened to her

Saskatoon history professor Ken Coates tells how he initially came across the little-known Princess Sophia story

Renee Hughes of the Gastineau Channel Historical Society talks about a recent cruise to raise funds for the restoration of the Sentinel Island Lighthouse


Suggested reading:

Ken Coates and Bill Morrison, 1991, The Sinking of the Princess Sophia: Taking the North Down with Her; University of Alaska Press, Fairbanks, Alaska

Betty O'Keefe and Ian McDonald, 1998, The Final Voyage of the Princess Sophia: Did They All Have to Die?; Heritage House, Surrey, B.C.


Other related links:

Database of shipwrecks of Alaska 's coast

Comprehensive listing of sites and databases of shipwrecks around the world

Article on preservation of shipwreck sites

British naval veteran's site includes the S.S. Princess Sophia wreck and salvage of the S.S. Islander

Pictures of James Delgado surveying Vanderbilt Reef during filming of "Seahunters"

Art inspired by the S.S. Princess Sophia disaster

History of the Spanish Influenza pandemic

More on the Spanish Influenza

Additional history of the Spanish Influenza

History site for teachers and students on the Spanish Flu

The Great War

We are grateful to the Alaska State Library, CBJ Parks and Recreation Department, and the Maritime Museum of British Columbia for their help in obtaining some of these photographs.